Lisbon in 3 Days: Alfama, Belém and Fado

Start at São Jorge Castle for the ramparts and views across Lisbon’s roofs to the Tagus. Walk downhill afterwards towards the cathedral, stopping for lunch before exploring Alfama’s lanes.

See Lisbon’s Romanesque cathedral on the downhill walk from the castle. From here, follow the lanes east into Alfama for lunch and the afternoon walk.

Follow Alfama’s lanes uphill to Largo das Portas do Sol for views over the roofs and Tagus. Continue through the small squares towards São Miguel, stopping for coffee before heading back towards the cathedral for dinner and fado.

End the Alfama day with dinner and live fado at this restaurant near the cathedral. Reserve an evening sitting for the music and make it the main plan for the night.

Take tram 15E from Praça da Figueira or Cais do Sodré to Belém. Start with Jerónimos’s carved stone cloister, then walk to the nearby bakery. The monastery closes on Mondays, so swap this day with the Baixa and Chiado walk.

Try a warm custard tart at the bakery beside Jerónimos, with coffee at a table or a takeaway for the waterfront. Afterwards, walk through the gardens towards the Tagus and east along the river to MAAT.

Walk east along the Belém waterfront to MAAT’s curved river-facing building. The architecture and promenade make a good afternoon walk; its exhibitions are an option for art and design enthusiasts.

Begin the third day beside the Tagus in Praça do Comércio, then walk through the arch into Baixa. The square and surrounding streets introduce the city’s rebuilt centre before the climb towards Chiado.

Walk through Chiado’s bookshops, cafés and theatre streets on the way from Baixa to Carmo. Stop for lunch in the neighbourhood before continuing to Largo do Carmo.

Carmo’s Gothic church lost its roof in the 1755 earthquake. Walk through the open nave and archaeological collection after Chiado, then finish with coffee at Largo do Carmo.